Tuesday, July 20, 2010

"Me compartis un pucho?" a.k.a "Smoking in Buenos Aires":

On the 24th of May, tragedy struck in the city of Buenos Aires, catching most unsuspecting smokers unawares. It was early in the afternoon, I believe, and I was pleasantly going about my business, strolling over to the ‘kiosco’ two blocks from where I live, smiling at the friendly ‘kiosco’ owner who has fed my nicotine-addiction for years. I held out my hand expectantly (as a regular customer there is no need for words between us), and he handed over a 'Marlboro box'. I gave him three bills of 'dos pesos' and waited for my twenty-five cent change back, or some random 'caramelo' he sometimes offers me instead when he is short on coins, but this time something was different. I waited for my change, my smile slowly turning into a frown, and kept waiting...
    When I finally said to him 'disculpame, pero me tenes que dar cambio, no?' he informed me that cigarette prices had gone up that day from 5.75 to 6 pesos. Once again the cursed hand of inflation had elevated the prices of my coveted cigarettes! I can still cast my mind back to the times, only a few years ago, when a 'Marlboro box' cost only 3.50...
    Smoking in Buenos Aires is not as big an issue as it is in some American and European cities (though I find it impossible to think of Paris without a 'croissant' and cigarette in my hands), and the whole 'eco-green-healthy' craze that has been in vogue in most developed countries recently seems not to have affected my city. Most restaurants still have smoking and non-smoking sections, most bars and night-clubs hold 'prohibido fumar' signs outside their premises though it is perfectly acceptable to light up once inside the door, and many hosts will already have ash-trays out whenever entertaining guests.
    If you feel uncomfortable with lighting a cigarette at a house-party, the first thing to do is look around to see if there are any ash-trays, and try to spot any other guests who might be smoking, because as we all know there is always safety in numbers. If neither of these are to be seen, go up to your host, smile and ask 'se puede fumar?'. If your host says yes, then go for it, if not, well, suck it up, you probably won't be hanging around much longer anyways. Smoking on the streets is perfectly acceptable, and though it has become a sad habit of many people to flick their butts on the sidewalk, please refrain from doing so and polluting my city. If I see you do this most likely I will 'cagarte a puteadas'. Trash cans are there for a reason, people. As I said before, most night-clubs and bars have no problem with smoking, even though it is technically illegal, and what better way to spend your night than dancing ‘reggeaton’ while holding your gin and tonic with your left hand, most of which will end up either on the floor or your clothes, and a cigarette with your right. Just to be on the side though, always try and check if other people are smoking, because if others are doing it, then that makes it perfectly okay, right?
    'Saludos' to all my fellow 'fumadores'
    El Pendejo Porteño
PS: check your local kiosco for an 'Abierto 24hs' sign or ask the owner 'abre toda la noche?' to see if you can come running here for ciggies after you've finished your last one at 4.30am.
PS2: to my friends back in Edinburgh who were amazed when I told them a packet of cigarettes was less than one quid back home, because 1 pound was 6 pesos, this is for you guys. The bloody cigarettes are finally one whole pound.

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